Using a straightedge, check the sole for flatness…
…and the side of the mouth the blade bears on for straightness.
If filing is required, use single-cut fine pillar files and flat
needle files. Keep them clean as you use them.
Mount the blade in a welders vise grip and hone a 25-degree
bevel and a 30-degree secondary bevel like with a plane iron.
use Arkansas stones in 4 grades and cutting oil, but cheap
wet-or-dry paper cemented to glass or MDF with WD40 works fine,
too. 100-600 grit in sequence…the duller the blade, the coarser
the starting point.
Note the protractor in the pic. Blade guides won’t work on short
spokeshave blades so you have to learn to hone by eye and feel.
Simply set your starting angle with the protractor and memorize
the feel of it…if you are careful and use a light touch you can
feel the bevel on the stone.
A bench height belt-buckle high facilitates elbow movement that
keeps the bevel flat without rocker… but if you get some rocker
in the bevel, it’s no biggie…
Just move on to your more-important secondary bevel and fix it
next time you hone.
Flatten the blade back using the same 4 grades of stone or
paper. On a blade that has never been flattened, do this before
you hone your bevels, and do it thoroughly.