Letters from Paul Schobernd


Sharpening a Scorp


Right or wrong, I will use a file if the edge geometry needs to be re-formed.

This I will generally follow with a Washita stone in hand and maybe another a little finer and finally I will strop with green rouge on leather. I lock the handle/s in a vise and get the best angle I can.

Many scorp seem to have rounded bevels that need to be re-defined. They don't cut well as they are. A course diamond could surely be used to re-establish that sharp edge geometry as well.

You don't say whether or not the scorp is beveled on the inside or outside IME the bigger ones have outside bevels and smaller often have inside bevels. That may not hold true in other's experience. My experience is limited and I readily admit it.

I treat a scorp just like a drawknife only it's one that some wisenheimer bent the ends on it and made it difficult to get to sharpen!

You didn't hear this from me, but I have used a Dr*m*l tool and sanding sleeves to sharpen where it is difficult to reach if the bevel is inside. Files can do the same job. The bigger the scorp the easier it is to access the edge IMHO.

Probably should have said this first, but you need to check the handle geometry in relationship to the blade to know what the best angle is going to be. Again, I want an edge that will cut and not just scrape.

I had a 2 Cherries chair scorp that had the edge from hell. It was rough, rounded and pretty much useless. Once I put a shallower knife-like edge on it, it worked fine. The same with some of my blacksmith made scorp.

I'd be interested in knowing how others handle scorp sharpening. My methods were developed by experience and work for me, but I have been known to do things the hard way before learning a correct way!

Paul in Normal, Illinois
July 2006


Disston Backsaws


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