Right or wrong,
I will use a file if the edge geometry needs to be re-formed.
This I will generally follow with a Washita stone in hand and
maybe another a little finer and finally I will strop with green
rouge on leather. I lock the handle/s in a vise and get the best
angle I can.
Many scorp seem
to have rounded bevels that need to be re-defined. They don't
cut well as they are. A course diamond could surely be used to
re-establish that sharp edge geometry as well.
You don't say
whether or not the scorp is beveled on the inside or outside IME
the bigger ones have outside bevels and smaller often have
inside bevels. That may not hold true in other's experience. My
experience is limited and I readily admit it.
I treat a scorp
just like a drawknife only it's one that some wisenheimer bent
the ends on it and made it difficult to get to sharpen!
You didn't hear
this from me, but I have used a Dr*m*l tool and sanding sleeves
to sharpen where it is difficult to reach if the bevel is
inside. Files can do the same job. The bigger the scorp the
easier it is to access the edge IMHO.
have said this first, but you need to check the handle geometry
in relationship to the blade to know what the best angle is
going to be. Again, I want an edge that will cut and not just
I had a 2
Cherries chair scorp that had the edge from hell. It was rough,
rounded and pretty much useless. Once I put a shallower
knife-like edge on it, it worked fine. The same with some of my
blacksmith made scorp.
interested in knowing how others handle scorp sharpening. My
methods were developed by experience and work for me, but I have
been known to do things the hard way before learning a correct
Paul in Normal, Illinois