The vertical dividers are the next
task on the cabinet and a bit of a trick to get right. The
horizontal dividers are only ˝” thick pine spanning the 31”
width of the cabinet and quiet flimsy until the verticals are
If you remember in the beginning of
part 2 when I planed the dados in the case side I had a 2” wide
piece in-between the case sides that was dadoed as well.
The reason for that piece was to
help support and hold the horizontal dividers in alignment while
installing the vertical dividers.
The support piece is simply placed
in the center of the case and pressed onto the dividers.
The vertical dividers are ˝” stock
cut slightly narrower than the horizontals so they won’t quiet
contact the backboard when it is installed. The length of the
verticals needs to be very accurate, even with the center
support it would not take much to push the horizontals out of
One row of the verticals that is
too long or too short could make a mess of everything. I
transferred the length of the first divider in the first row
directly to the stock, then used a hand miter box and cut it to
Before cutting anymore for that row
I installed it in the cabinet and made sure it was the right
length. If it’s good, clamp a stop to the miter box and cut the
remaining dividers the same length for that row. As you complete
each row of verticals, eyeball down the horizontal divider to
double check that it is not bowed one way or the other.
After completing a row, I glued and
nailed the dividers front and back with small finish nails.
Repeat the same process for each row.
After all of the vertical dividers
are in the, back boards can be installed. I pre-bored the back
then glued and nailed it in place with 1 ˝”cut nails.